Discover Gukje Market, Busan’s post-war hub of survival and memory—where every alley, food stall, and artifact tells Korea’s untold story.
Introduction: I Didn’t Expect to Feel Anything
I came to Gukje Market on a whim.
I’d read about it—old alleys, sizzling hotteok—but assumed it was just another traditional market dressed up for tourists.
Once I stepped past the first alley, everything changed.
Vendors shouted to passersby. Music crackled from old radios. The sweet and savory aroma of fried sugar and soy sauce filled the air.
Clearly, it wasn’t curated or posed. It was raw—and deeply alive.
How Gukje Market Became a Post-War Lifeline in Busan
A Refuge in a Nation at War
Following Korea’s liberation in 1945—and especially during the Korean War—Busan turned into a sanctuary for millions seeking safety.
Records estimate that 1.5 million refugees arrived in the initial wave, followed by another 4.8 million. Amid this humanitarian upheaval, Gukje Market arose—not from economic ambition but sheer survival.
The Meaning Behind “Gukje”
The word “Gukje” means international. But this wasn’t about imported goods.
Rather, it referred to the people—Japanese returnees, North Korean defectors, American GIs, and local survivors—all converging in narrow alleys to barter, rebuild, and start over.
Busan Street Food with History: The Taste of Hotteok
Lured by the smell of caramelized sugar, I wandered toward a small cart where a woman was making hotteok.
“씨앗호떡~ 따뜻해요,” she sang, pressing the dough with rhythmic precision.
When I took a bite—crispy on the outside, molten inside, filled with seeds and syrup—it wasn’t just delicious. It carried the weight of memory.
Surrounding her were cassette players, army boots, and vintage radios, displayed like an accidental archive of another era.
Ode to My Father and the Legacy of Gukje Market
A few turns later, I came upon Kkotbuni’s Store—the very one featured in Ode to My Father, a film chronicling a man’s sacrifices through Korea’s modern history.
This wasn’t merely a movie backdrop. It was a monument of collective memory.
Tourists posed for pictures. A father recounted the story to his young daughter. I stood quietly, thinking about my own family and their untold sacrifices.
Voices Behind the Stalls: Living Memory
In a dusty electronics shop tucked away in a corner, I reached for an old radio.
The shopkeeper noticed. “My father started this place after the war. We lived behind that curtain,” he shared.
That was all he said. But the dust, the soldering tools, and the quiet air said everything else.
Why Gukje Market Still Matters in Modern Busan
Unlike many markets that aim to entertain, Gukje Market preserves.
It preserves stories of hunger, bartered meals, and generations who lived behind food stalls and still run them today.
This market doesn’t perform—it remembers. And it breathes with the rhythm of history.
Visitor Tips for Gukje Market
- 📍 Location: Jagalchi Station, Exit 7, Busan
- 🕒 When to Go: Morning to early afternoon
- 💵 Bring: Small bills, reusable bag
- 🍢 Must-Try Foods:
- Seed-filled hotteok
- Fish cake (odeng)
- Dumplings (mandu)
- Sikhye (sweet rice drink)
- 💬 Tip: Most vendors speak Korean, but smiles go far
❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1: What is Gukje Market known for?
Gukje Market is known for its historical roots, Korean street food, vintage shops, and its role as a symbol of survival after the Korean War.
Q2: When was Gukje Market founded?
Gukje Market was founded informally in the early 1950s during the Korean War when many refugees arrived in Busan.
Q3: What can I buy at Gukje Market?
You can buy vintage military items, old electronics, traditional Korean snacks, and local crafts.
Q4: Is Gukje Market worth visiting for tourists?
Yes, it offers a unique mix of history, culture, and authentic Korean street life that makes it a meaningful place to visit.
Q5: What movie was filmed at Gukje Market?
Ode to My Father (국제시장), a well-known Korean film, was shot in and inspired by the market.
Q6: How can I get to Gukje Market by subway?
Take Line 1 of the Busan Subway to Jagalchi Station and use Exit 7. The market is a short walk from there.
🛤️ From Gukje Market to Yeongdo: Busan’s Dual Memory
If Gukje Market is where Busan remembers how it survived, Yeongdo is where the city reflects, breathes, and imagines what comes next.
Cross Yeongdo Bridge and find mural-lined alleys, sea-view cafés, and stories that whisper from cliffs instead of crowds.
👉 Read more: Yeongdo: Busan’s Quiet Island of Memory, Culture, and Sea
📚 Explore More Stories from Busan
Love discovering the soul of Busan? Here’s more:
